In our computerized, automated age, an article I just read about the British forced rhubarb business astonished me. The heart of the industry is in Yorkshire where loam soil on a clay base makes for perfect rhubarb crowns. The process has changed little since Victorian times, when rhubarb's popularity was at it's peak, and farmers planted their crop in heated sheds with earth floors, and harvested by candle-light. The local coal mines provided cheap fuel, waste effluence enriched the soil and, as "rhubarb loves soot", the crop thrived in the high levels of air pollution.
Forced rhubarb, with it's fabulous fushia pink stems, sherbert-tangy flavor and delicate texture, is the crème de la crème. It sounds very different from the stringy, tannic, greenish stalks I grow in my garden. However, forcing it is a really tedious labor of love. First the roots, or crowns, are grown outside for at least two years. Early in their third winter they are dug up after it has been cold enough to break their dormancy and planted in heated sheds. All light is blocked off and in the dark warmth the shoots appear so quickly the sheaths around the buds can be heard gently popping. Three weeks later they are ready for their first "pulling" or harvesting. This in itself is quite an art. The "pullers" carry cast iron stakes topped with a candle as electric light spoils the color of the stems, in the pale flickering light they have to navigate a sea of chartreuse-yellow leaves and pull only the stems that are as long as an arm while not damaging any of the plants. It is said this arcane cold-dark-heat process was discovered by a gardener who threw an old crown on a stable muck pile. The manure was hot and the plant was soon covered, until a couple of weeks later the startling pink stems were found and eaten by a stable boy.
Great story, now I just have to seek some out here so I can make my annual rhubarb vodka recipe. I was inspired by the most delicious rhubarb vodka I tasted at a pub in the Cotswolds - unfortunately it was made privately for them and not available commercially. I've been trying ever since to replicate the taste. Last year I added vanilla pods, but unlike the year before the rhubarb stems I used were green, I think both the colour and flavour are better when fuchsia pink forced rhubarb is used. This year I'm going to follow the advice we were given at Bovey Castle at their cider and sloe gin making course. The secret seems to leave it in the vodka for 9 months to a year, not the couple of months I have been steeping it for. Hard to wait that long!
Rhubarb infused vodka
Bright pink rhubarb
Sugar
vodka
Large container with sealable lid
Wash the rhubarb and cut the sticks into equal-sized lengths. Fill container at least 1/2 full. According to most recipes you should pour sugar over and shake until the rhubarb is covered. I find this is too sweet so just add sugar until it is about halfway up the rhubarb. Add vodka to more than cover and shake. Shake 1x a day for a week, 1x week for a month, 1x month for a year. Drink!
Forced rhubarb, with it's fabulous fushia pink stems, sherbert-tangy flavor and delicate texture, is the crème de la crème. It sounds very different from the stringy, tannic, greenish stalks I grow in my garden. However, forcing it is a really tedious labor of love. First the roots, or crowns, are grown outside for at least two years. Early in their third winter they are dug up after it has been cold enough to break their dormancy and planted in heated sheds. All light is blocked off and in the dark warmth the shoots appear so quickly the sheaths around the buds can be heard gently popping. Three weeks later they are ready for their first "pulling" or harvesting. This in itself is quite an art. The "pullers" carry cast iron stakes topped with a candle as electric light spoils the color of the stems, in the pale flickering light they have to navigate a sea of chartreuse-yellow leaves and pull only the stems that are as long as an arm while not damaging any of the plants. It is said this arcane cold-dark-heat process was discovered by a gardener who threw an old crown on a stable muck pile. The manure was hot and the plant was soon covered, until a couple of weeks later the startling pink stems were found and eaten by a stable boy.
Great story, now I just have to seek some out here so I can make my annual rhubarb vodka recipe. I was inspired by the most delicious rhubarb vodka I tasted at a pub in the Cotswolds - unfortunately it was made privately for them and not available commercially. I've been trying ever since to replicate the taste. Last year I added vanilla pods, but unlike the year before the rhubarb stems I used were green, I think both the colour and flavour are better when fuchsia pink forced rhubarb is used. This year I'm going to follow the advice we were given at Bovey Castle at their cider and sloe gin making course. The secret seems to leave it in the vodka for 9 months to a year, not the couple of months I have been steeping it for. Hard to wait that long!
Rhubarb infused vodka
Bright pink rhubarb
Sugar
vodka
Large container with sealable lid
Wash the rhubarb and cut the sticks into equal-sized lengths. Fill container at least 1/2 full. According to most recipes you should pour sugar over and shake until the rhubarb is covered. I find this is too sweet so just add sugar until it is about halfway up the rhubarb. Add vodka to more than cover and shake. Shake 1x a day for a week, 1x week for a month, 1x month for a year. Drink!
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